Sunday, March 9, 2014

Budgeting in Bonnie Scotland

Urquhart Castle with views over Loch Ness
So we've just concluded our jaunt through the Republic of Ireland and the UK with two whirlwind weeks in bonnie Scotland; a land renowned for rolling green hills, kilt-wearing bagpipers and crumbling castle ruins. Whilst no cheaper than its Irish or British neighbours (we still averaged about AUD$50/ day each) it nonetheless offered plenty for a budget traveler to see and do, with spectacular coastlines and a vibrant cultural scene accessible to all.

Having said that, it did help to do our homework. Because a bit of research can translate into big savings, particularly in regards to transport and accommodation. That doesn't mean you have to book every detail of your trip in advance (especially in winter, when you may have to deal with unforeseen weather conditions), but just a little foresight and planning will make a real difference to your spending.

So here are my tips for getting aboot the majestic Scotland or the picturesque Emerald Isle on the cheap:

1. Have an Itinerary


Be organised, but don't rush or lose too much time to travel
For both Ireland and Scotland I began by creating an itinerary. I don't usually do this as I prefer to remain flexible and open to last-minute detours, or free to linger a little longer in places I really like. However as we only had four weeks for both countries I knew we needed to be little bit more organised.

Fortunately, the entire region is so easy to get around that you can see and do plenty within just a few weeks. That said, you simply can't see everything and you don't want to spend hours moving from one place to another only to stay one night in your destination before you have to leave. So it's best to plan your route and decide where you will stay, allowing enough time to cover the major sights whilst not losing time to travel.

For Ireland we began in Dublin and simply traveled counter-clockwise (due to flooding down south when we first arrived) up to Belfast and then on to Derry, back down the coast to Galway and on to Cork, then back to Dublin. We then grabbed a cheap flight to the city of Glasgow in Scotland before moving on to the capital Edinburgh and up to Inverness in the Scottish Highlands.

Poulnabrone dolmen in Ireland is only
a short drive from Galway
We averaged three or four nights at each destination, spending at least one day taking in the major sights of each city/town and allowing another one or two days for organised tours and day trips. This was because many of the major attractions and natural wonders are accessible from the larger cities, so you don't need to be constantly on the move.

For example, from Belfast in Northern Ireland you can hire a car and easily visit the Giant's Causeway; from Galway you can take a tour bus to the Cliffs of Moher and Poulnabrone dolmen; from Cork it's only a short drive to The Ring of Kerry or from Inverness in Scotland you can visit the infamous Loch Ness or the stunning Isle of Skye.

Similarly both Ireland and Scotland are very well connected to other UK cities, so when looking to fly in or out of the region always consider alternative airports. It may be much cheaper to fly to Glasgow for example and simply get a coach down to Manchester or London (or vice versa). And the same coach from Glasgow Airport into the city centre will often continue on to Edinburgh too. Whilst it may take a little longer to reach your final destination (and involve more than one mode of transport), you can nonetheless save a great deal on air fares by considering alternative routes and looking at the local budget airlines such as Aer Lingus

2. Book Transport Early 


You don't need to book months in advance, but the sooner you can book the better. This goes for ALL modes of transport, not just flights. Train and coach prices rose significantly when booked less than one week before travel, with the most expensive fares being same-day purchases.

Book transport early to save on fares
Whilst many bus and train fares have a flat rate, it doesn't hurt to do your research online as you can still save money by scoring a promotional fare. If you know exactly where you're planning to go and when (because you've created an itinerary as I've suggested above), it doesn't hurt to look for online deals and compare different modes of transport. We scored some great fares this way - €6 fares between Cork and Dublin with Bus Eireann  (valid for online purchases only, if travelling between 10am and 3pm on expressway routes) and £9 fares from Glasgow Airport (if purchased online in advance).

Likewise backpacker favourite Megabus can offer some dirt-cheap fares between UK cities and other European destinations and will often be just as fast as taking the train (but considerably cheaper!)

3. Stay out of Major Cities on Weekends


Get out of the cities on weekends
I was horrified when I looked at the cost of accommodation in Dublin on the weekend we first arrived. I knew Ireland was expensive compared to other places we've been, but it seemed exceedingly high. As it turned out, there was a major Rugby match on that weekend which meant A LOT of out-of-towners would be visiting the big smoke.

The same thing happened when we were leaving Glasgow - a major boxing match meant the hostel was completely booked, causing my partner and I to have to sleep in separate dorms. And in Galway, my unpleasant roommates were not fellow travellers but some rural boys enjoying a night on the town.

You may find many locals travel between cities and towns on the weekends regardless of the time of year, so accommodation always goes up on a Friday and Saturday night. Whilst it can't always be avoided, try to stay in smaller towns on the weekends and visit the major cities on a Monday to Thursday instead. You'll not only save on accommodation, but avoid many of the tourist hordes (just be sure to check the attractions you want to see will be open on weekdays).

Also consider budget hotels as well as hostels. Whilst you will definitely need to lower your expectations (old Georgian buildings, cracks in walls, peeling paint etc) they can sometimes be better value, although you usually won't have access to a shared kitchen so self catering will be difficult. Still, you may have a private room and (if you're lucky) your own en-suite...just don't get your hopes up.

There's no reason to pay more just to stay in the city centre
Alternatively you can always stay with locals out in the 'burbs thanks to Airbnb. We did this a number of times in the UK and found it much more enjoyable than staying in a hotel or a hostel, as we were able to wash our clothes (free of charge) and cook our own meals. With all public transport so easy to navigate in Ireland and Scotland, there's really no reason to pay more just to stay in the city centre.

4. Enjoy the Free Attractions


Much like my blog post on penny-pinching in London, both Ireland and Scotland are full of FREE cultural attractions such as art galleries, museums, universities and historic houses. There's also an abundance of nature walks and beautiful parks to explore in good weather, in addition to free walking tours in all of the major cities.

Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum
Some of our favourites included the exquisite Burrell Collection, housed within the magnificent Pollok Country Park (definitely worth a visit with over 360 acres of woodland and open countryside within its boundaries, as well as a vast network of paths and trails) and the elegant Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum, home to one of Europe's greatest art collections and one of the most visited museums in the United Kingdom outside of London.

Another option is to simply hire a car for a day, grab a map and get out into the spectacular countryside. Whilst car hire is definitely not going to be cheap (despite the initial rate they quote you - once you've added insurance excess and petrol etc), if you've saved on accommodation and transport you can splurge on a day's hire every now and again. It is absolutely worth doing if you have the means and the time, as the countless rivers and lochs and mountains and cliffs and picturesque villages will take your breath away. Heck, even hire a bike if it's all you can afford. You won't regret it. 

5. Make the Most of Meal Deals


As I mentioned in my London post there's plenty of budget options for lunch in the UK. In addition to the £3 sandwich/drink/crisps deal from the local supermarket, or hearty soups and salad boxes from the local cafes, many of the local pubs offer fantastic lunch specials.

They can be excellent value too, as we found portions to be enormous (in particular The Rock in Glasgow's vibrant West End, where I was served a Yorkshire Pudding the size of a dinner plate) with many offering two-for-one deals or two mains for £10 etc. In Manchester we had some delicious knäckebröd pizzas at The Bay Horse Pub that were not only huge, but only half 1/2 price at it was a Monday.

Roast pork at Edinburgh Farmers' Market
Markets are always good value, as there's almost always a stall selling baps full of organic beef or pulled pork or wild boar; or a warm, stuffed Cornish pasty. Edinburgh Farmers' Market in particular is definitely worth checking out, as it's held on the Castle Terrace under the imposing backdrop of Edinburgh Castle every Saturday morning and the majority of stall holders are local suppliers who grow what they sell.

You'll find almost all accommodation providers in the UK and Ireland will include breakfast in the room rate, however the quality will depend on how much you're paying. Sadly most hostels and budget hotels pale in comparison to their European counterparts, with the majority simply offering measly cornflakes or cheap white bread and sickly-sweet jam. Still, if you eat breakfast at the hotel or hostel and self-cater for lunch or dinner, you can limit yourself to eating out just once a day.

Pollok Country Park, Glasgow
Ultimately whilst not as easy to save money in Ireland and Scotland compared to other countries in Europe, the same basic principles apply. Eat where the locals eat, stay a bit further out of the city centre if you need to, take public transport.

The key to travelling this region on a budget is to be a little more organised than you would be visiting other countries. Whilst it's an incredibly hospitable and easily travelled part of the world, it takes a little research and forethought to grab the best deals.

But don't let that deter you. If you plan ahead and budget accordingly, you will be richly rewarded. We found the ruggedness of the landscape breathtaking, the cities steeped in history and culture and the people of Ireland and Scotland to be friendly, proud and good-humoured. And you can't put a price on that.

Don't let the cost of the UK and Ireland hold you back

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