Cuba: Viva la Revolución!

The view from the steps of the Plaza Mayor
in Trinidad, Cuba

As I write this, I'm slowly rocking back and forth in my chair on the terrace of our casa particular in the enchanting town of Trinidad, Cuba. It's the last day of my visit and I've just spent the best part of an hour indulging in my favourite pastime: people watching.

As I sat on the steps of the Plaza Mayor squinting against the sun, watching scores of French retirees take photos and gawk at the colonial architecture that surrounds them, it occurred to me that I haven't felt so at peace in a very, very long time.

Here in Cuba they have turned idle people watching into a national sport. They congregate in doorways, sit on the steps of buildings, gather at bus stops and lean against fences in every village, city or town you pass through. Like the countless cats and scruffy mongrels that trawl the streets seeking respite from the sun, the Cuban people survey everything that passes them by with an idle curiosity. Women gossip animatedly amongst themselves, men yell greetings to one another as they cross the street, children shout over a game of marbles... all under the watchful eye of their voyeuristic neighbours.

The streets of Trinidad

At first I found this openness and transparency somewhat disconcerting. Indeed the blatant stares from the men and scrutinising looks from the women as I would casually stroll by took some getting used to. I'm accustomed to being anonymous and invisible in my home city. Or at least being amongst the many hordes of other foreigners visiting a country, so that I'm not particularly interesting to the locals who are instead accustomed to OUR curious stares.

But here in Cuba I constantly feel like an exhibit on display in a museum. It's hard not to, with heads turning as you walk past, or people stopping in their tracks to look you up and down...

But I've come to realise that the Cuban people mean no harm. Whilst you may be constantly approached by jineteros in the tourist areas and accosted by women offering accommodation the minute you step off a bus, for the most past Cubans will leave you be. They're simply looking at everyone (as evidenced by the way they will gather in the street to enjoy a couple fighting, like spectators at a sporting match).

They live their lives out in the open

This is a huge part of Cuba's charm. It is so far removed from the fast-paced, anonymous, urban metropolises of the developed world it almost feels trapped in a time warp. They live their lives completely out in the open. There's not a damn smart phone or Blackberry or iPad in sight. As for WiFi, forget it. It's wonderful.

Instead of being glued intently to their devices people amuse themselves in other ways. Impromptu music recitals and drum sessions erupt in parks; children play soccer in the street; women saunter around leisurely in short shorts and stretch pants; old men gather to play chess or cards on folding tables… or (as I have come to enjoy) they simply spend hours idly people watching. 

I was initially anxious about traveling Cuba due to money issues (they have a dual-currency system) and the language barrier (I've learnt pathetically little Spanish whilst in Mexico). But those fears have proved unfounded. We have navigated the western half of Cuba effortlessly, through Havana and Viñales and now Trinidad. The grass-roots hospitality of the casa owners has meant that almost every part of our journey has been taken care of and they've kindly organised all of our transport and excursions, even taking the time to proudly showcase their home towns.

American classic cars operate as taxis
in Havana

Far from being a communist dystopia Cuba is a fascinating, perplexing and paradoxical place. The cities spring to life each day with a cacophony of roosters at dawn and then hum along to the soundtrack of squeaking push bikes, the clip-clop of horse pulled carts, the roar of vehicles, the catch cry of fruit vendors and the constant swoosh of women sweeping doorways and footpaths.

Amongst the crumbling facades and vast villas of Havana there's the omnipresent Salsa music blaring from the many American classic cars that operate as colectivos navigating the city. A thriving cultural scene is populated by Cuba’s farándula and moneyed locals, with Piña Colada stands and art galleries as ubiquitous as coffee shops are in Melbourne.

Whilst it's hard to escape the waft of cigar smoke or the shouts of "Taxi!" "Pretty Lady..." and "Where you from?" within the tourist traps, when it all becomes too much you can simply descend upon the vast Malecón and join the many groups of locals sipping beer or rum at sunset, while eagles and sparrows circle in the sky... 

These past two weeks have felt like another era, another world. It's clear that 50 years of Socialism has undoubtedly taken its toll on Cuba’s social and economic fabric, but the indomitable spirit of the Cuban people is nothing short of inspiring. It has reinforced for me some of what we've lost in Australia - that sense of community, the sight of strangers talking to one another, the camaraderie amongst neighbours.

In my next post I'll give my Cuba travel tips, e.g. finding a good casa, the best places to eat, getting around effortlessly, things to see and do, etc.

But for now, I think I'll need a few days to digest it all and come down.

The dramatic Malecón in Havana