Paradise? You'd Better Belize It

New friends in Caye Caulker, Belize

Infatuation - that unpredictable, havoc-wreaking surge of dopamine that has fuelled the angst of many an artist, musician and poet. Like a filter on an Instagram photo it suffuses everything with a warm, fuzzy glow; miraculously erasing any flaws and camouflaging harsh truths. Scientists liken its effects to that of cocaine and heroin, such is its power over our delicate brain-chemistry. And just like an addict trying to go cold turkey, sometimes the only way to overcome an infatuation is to distance yourself from the object of your desire - completely.

This has been my experience with the Caribbean island of Caye Caulker, Belize. From the minute I stepped off the crowded water taxi onto the dock, I began feeling its effects. The calm turquoise water, the softly swaying palms, the powder-white sand and faded wooden cabanas… after the highlands and jungles of Guatemala, Caye Caulker felt like a different world. 

Flying Solo

From two to one

I've recently rented a room in the picture-perfect city of Antigua from a diminutive Guatemalan abuela who provides three hearty meals per day and affectionately refers to me as chica. My days are spent taking Spanish lessons, practicing my poor Spanish and fervently devouring books from the only second-hand book store in town. Because as of exactly two weeks ago, our cosy traveling party of two became an even cosier party of one... and I shall now be continuing this journey solo.

In the wake of our leisurely fortnight in Cuba my partner and I returned to Mexico, taking refuge from the touristy Yucatan Peninsula on the bohemian island of Holbox. We secured a fantastic deal on a rustic wooden bungalow (thanks to the impending low season) and for two weeks did little more than swing in hammocks, eat guacamole and fish tacos and drink cervezas on the beach at sunset. Yet as relaxing as it was, my partner found he couldn't shake his growing restlessness and impassivity for traveling. And as the week drew to a close, we both knew something had to change.

Cuba Travel Tips

We traveled seamlessly, but I researched extensively

In my last post I discussed how seamlessly we traveled through Cuba. This was in large part due to the gracious hospitality of the casa owners, who helped us organise transport and excursions and recommended places to visit and places to eat. However I also conducted extensive research before our trip, which prepared us well for a lot of the idiosyncrasies that you will face as a traveller to this perplexing island country.

You see, Cuba is not really a 'backpacker' destination if you define that as a place with various transport options, a range of budget accommodation choices and plenty of cheap eats. Whilst there is a plethora of casas to choose from, for the most part their prices are the same. And whilst cheap eats are indeed to be found, variety is somewhat limited. As for transport, you generally have two options for getting around: the Viazul buses or a private taxi. 

Also, Cuba is not a 'cheap' destination compared to some of its Central American neighbours. That said, there are still ways to save and if you budget accordingly you can have a great time without widening the wallet too much. To take some of the headache out of planning a trip to Cuba, I've summarised the need-to-know information below: 

Cuba: Viva la Revolución!

The view from the steps of the Plaza Mayor
in Trinidad, Cuba

As I write this, I'm slowly rocking back and forth in my chair on the terrace of our casa particular in the enchanting town of Trinidad, Cuba. It's the last day of my visit and I've just spent the best part of an hour indulging in my favourite pastime: people watching.

As I sat on the steps of the Plaza Mayor squinting against the sun, watching scores of French retirees take photos and gawk at the colonial architecture that surrounds them, it occurred to me that I haven't felt so at peace in a very, very long time.

Here in Cuba they have turned idle people watching into a national sport. They congregate in doorways, sit on the steps of buildings, gather at bus stops and lean against fences in every village, city or town you pass through. Like the countless cats and scruffy mongrels that trawl the streets seeking respite from the sun, the Cuban people survey everything that passes them by with an idle curiosity. Women gossip animatedly amongst themselves, men yell greetings to one another as they cross the street, children shout over a game of marbles... all under the watchful eye of their voyeuristic neighbours.