Nica Please!

I wanted to just be a nomad, at the mercy of fate

As we begin a new year and the holiday season draws to a close, I figured it was time for a long-overdue blog post. I haven’t written anything since September 2014 thanks to the extreme humidity in Nicaragua taking the lives of both my laptop and camera (which I’ve since repaired/replaced) and because…well, quite frankly, as much as I love writing this blog I didn’t come all this way to spend my days sitting in front of a computer!

In fact, the past four months have seen me doing exactly what I set out to do when I embarked on this trip a year and a half ago. As I expressed in my very first blog entry I wanted: "To travel with no real map, no final destination. To just be a nomad, at the mercy of fate with no goal greater than to simply explore the world. To immerse myself in different cultures and new experiences, no matter how challenging or confronting.” And that’s precisely what I’ve done.

For four blissful months I didn’t leave Nicaragua. It wasn’t due to another bout of travel fatigue, (although I was yearning for a bit of routine and a chance to properly unpack my bag). More precisely, following my two intoxicating months partying, dancing, snorkeling and diving in Belize and Honduras I was keen to forgo the ceaseless hedonism for a while… to have a purpose again, to get my health back and to form some solid friendships.

Nicaragua offers tremendous biodiversity

So I alternated between trips to the picturesque Isla de Ometepe (where I spent time working in a hostel) with trips to various beaches, towns and cities throughout Nicaragua. Framed by the Caribbean Sea on one side and the Pacific Ocean on the other, Nicaragua offers tremendous biodiversity and a plethora of attractions for travelers: from exploring the colonial cities of Leon and Granada; to visiting the multiple volcanoes, mountains and volcanic crater lakes; hiking the various waterfalls and jungle forests inhabited by native birds, butterflies and howler monkeys; cruising amongst numerous tropical islets and sailing along mighty rivers; or traversing the abundant colorful towns and villages throughout the country, each with their own bustling mercado and lively Parque Central…

With the exception of where I worked on Ometepe, I refrained from staying in backpacker hostels as I could often get my own double room for the same price or less in local casas particulares. As the months went on, I saved even further by moving to the vibrant beach side town of San Juan del Sur. With its steady stream of international travelers and a great mix of Nicas and expats, I made friends in no time and in exchange for buying food and cooking, they let me stay for free.

Whilst my first experience of this town involved many sleepless nights and more than one 'Sunday Funday' pool party, this time I refrained from such debauchery and actually managed to fill my time with more than just hula-hooping and rum-fueled revelry.

Instead, an average day would begin with a hearty desayuno of huevos y frijoles, washed down with a strong cafe negro and fresh jugo or coconut from one of the various street vendors. I would then go to my Spanish class for a few hours, or catch a collectivo to the next town over for some shopping at the mercado. At 5pm each day I would descend upon the beach for a cerveza or helado at sunset, before cooking a meal of fresh fish (bought direct from local fishermen) with a side of plátanos and arroz. My evenings would be spent playing trivia, salsa dancing or watching a band at one of the numerous bars throughout town.

Zip lining on Isla de Ometepe

In addition to my Spanish classes, cooking sessions and idle hours spent relaxing on beaches; I also went sailing on a catamaran, I attended some full moon parties and music festivals, I hiked volcanoes and waterfalls, I rode numerous chicken buses and bicycles, I swam in natural springs and lakes, I watched locals bull fighting and performing in street parades, I took white-knuckle rides on motorbikes, I went zip lining and horse riding and spent many, many nights laughing, dancing and singing karaoke with new friends.

It was wonderful to immerse myself in a destination and really get to know people. To be able to walk through town and be waved hello by neighbors, or stopped on the street for a chat. I met people of all ages and from all walks of life, each with a story to tell. I also managed to have my first hot shower in months, I read voraciously, I went to see a doctor for a check-up and got my first haircut in over a year...

Alas, it was not all roses. Power outages and internet blackouts were common. I suffered severe gastroenteritis that put me out for days. I also developed a Staph infection, was bitten by a scorpion and chased by packs of emaciated dogs. I developed a severe allergic reaction (I’ve never been allergic to anything in my life) that caused a rash all over my face and neck and made me want to scratch my face off. A mysterious virus (suspected Chikungunya) caused days of fever and chills with intensely aching bones. There’s a constant threat of infection in Nicaragua (like many parts of the Americas) and so they give out antibiotics like candy, which often leads to further problems. Limited medical facilities in remote areas/towns means almost every symptom you present is simply prescribed Ibuprofen… and even within the larger towns and cities, healthcare can be mixed (some good, some very basic by Australian standards).

A typical sunset in San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua

Whilst Nicaragua is undoubtedly a beautiful place, it is also a haven for some drifters and down-and-outs. Many depressed loners and retirees while away the hours propping up bars. An unfortunate downside to many developing countries is that they attract people who have ****** up their own lives and are looking for somewhere cheap to escape to. Or simply backpackers who are chasing inexpensive drugs and endless partying. Add to this the occasional bouts of loneliness and homesickness, coupled with the distress of seeing children not going to school and instead panhandling or selling trinkets on the street, or men passed out from alcohol and drugs, or prostitutes hustling at night… there were times when I felt completely helpless and completely disillusioned.

Nonetheless, Nicaragua still holds a special place in my heart and has given me a much-needed sense of ‘home’ on this trip. I've been truly blessed to be part of an amazing community that has both inspired me and accepted me without question. These people have been my adoptive family these past few months: nursing me through ill health, offering guidance and support, providing a shoulder to cry on (or an eager dancing/karaoke partner).

A Nicaraguan family home

It has also been humbling to see local people with so little (many of whom earn $5 or less per day, who can’t afford medicine when they need it and who live in one-room huts with their entire family) be so generous and compassionate with each other.

It will be interesting to see the impact of the Chinese-backed canal on the economy and see how this little gem of a country (the second poorest country in Latin America after Haiti) will change in years to come.

Most importantly however, Nicaragua has reminded me of the importance of occasionally staying put, rather than skimming across the surface of the world like stones on a pond. Throughout much of my twenties I was on the move - new jobs, new apartments, new cities, new countries. I was always looking for something more, for something new, for something other. This blossomed into the perpetual wanderlust that plagues me to this day. But I've come to learn that staying in one place is just as distinct and gratifying an experience as traveling to somewhere I’ve never been - and there are many things to be discovered in stillness as well as in motion.

"It does not matter how slowly you go as long as you do not stop." 

– Confucius