Party Central

Nursing our hangovers with some beach time

I'm currently sitting metres away from the surf breaks of Playa Gigante, Nicaragua enjoying my first alcohol-free day in over a month. As Bob Marley croons "Every little thing gonna be alright" over the hostel speakers; it's occurred to me that yes, indeed, everything gonna be alright - so long as I stay the hell away from alcohol over the next few days.

Following my intoxicating month in Belize I hightailed it straight to Utila, the smallest of Honduras' Bay Islands nestled in the Caribbean Sea. I had grand notions of putting my party days behind me and instead focusing on obtaining my diving certification (Utila is renowned amongst the backpacking world for being one of the cheapest places to learn to dive in Latin America). And whilst I did indeed obtain my Open Water Certification and subsequently my Advanced Open Water; the reggae baselines thumping from the dance halls throughout town and the ridiculously cheap cost of rum proved too hard to ignore, so I instead found myself spending many a dive trying not to throw up into my regulator. 

Paradise? You'd Better Belize It

New friends in Caye Caulker, Belize

Infatuation - that unpredictable, havoc-wreaking surge of dopamine that has fuelled the angst of many an artist, musician and poet. Like a filter on an Instagram photo it suffuses everything with a warm, fuzzy glow; miraculously erasing any flaws and camouflaging harsh truths. Scientists liken its effects to that of cocaine and heroin, such is its power over our delicate brain-chemistry. And just like an addict trying to go cold turkey, sometimes the only way to overcome an infatuation is to distance yourself from the object of your desire - completely.

This has been my experience with the Caribbean island of Caye Caulker, Belize. From the minute I stepped off the crowded water taxi onto the dock, I began feeling its effects. The calm turquoise water, the softly swaying palms, the powder-white sand and faded wooden cabanas… after the highlands and jungles of Guatemala, Caye Caulker felt like a different world. 

Flying Solo

From two to one

I've recently rented a room in the picture-perfect city of Antigua from a diminutive Guatemalan abuela who provides three hearty meals per day and affectionately refers to me as chica. My days are spent taking Spanish lessons, practicing my poor Spanish and fervently devouring books from the only second-hand book store in town. Because as of exactly two weeks ago, our cosy traveling party of two became an even cosier party of one... and I shall now be continuing this journey solo.

In the wake of our leisurely fortnight in Cuba my partner and I returned to Mexico, taking refuge from the touristy Yucatan Peninsula on the bohemian island of Holbox. We secured a fantastic deal on a rustic wooden bungalow (thanks to the impending low season) and for two weeks did little more than swing in hammocks, eat guacamole and fish tacos and drink cervezas on the beach at sunset. Yet as relaxing as it was, my partner found he couldn't shake his growing restlessness and impassivity for traveling. And as the week drew to a close, we both knew something had to change.

Cuba Travel Tips

We traveled seamlessly, but I researched extensively

In my last post I discussed how seamlessly we traveled through Cuba. This was in large part due to the gracious hospitality of the casa owners, who helped us organise transport and excursions and recommended places to visit and places to eat. However I also conducted extensive research before our trip, which prepared us well for a lot of the idiosyncrasies that you will face as a traveller to this perplexing island country.

You see, Cuba is not really a 'backpacker' destination if you define that as a place with various transport options, a range of budget accommodation choices and plenty of cheap eats. Whilst there is a plethora of casas to choose from, for the most part their prices are the same. And whilst cheap eats are indeed to be found, variety is somewhat limited. As for transport, you generally have two options for getting around: the Viazul buses or a private taxi. 

Also, Cuba is not a 'cheap' destination compared to some of its Central American neighbours. That said, there are still ways to save and if you budget accordingly you can have a great time without widening the wallet too much. To take some of the headache out of planning a trip to Cuba, I've summarised the need-to-know information below: 

Cuba: Viva la Revolución!

The view from the steps of the Plaza Mayor
in Trinidad, Cuba

As I write this, I'm slowly rocking back and forth in my chair on the terrace of our casa particular in the enchanting town of Trinidad, Cuba. It's the last day of my visit and I've just spent the best part of an hour indulging in my favourite pastime: people watching.

As I sat on the steps of the Plaza Mayor squinting against the sun, watching scores of French retirees take photos and gawk at the colonial architecture that surrounds them, it occurred to me that I haven't felt so at peace in a very, very long time.

Here in Cuba they have turned idle people watching into a national sport. They congregate in doorways, sit on the steps of buildings, gather at bus stops and lean against fences in every village, city or town you pass through. Like the countless cats and scruffy mongrels that trawl the streets seeking respite from the sun, the Cuban people survey everything that passes them by with an idle curiosity. Women gossip animatedly amongst themselves, men yell greetings to one another as they cross the street, children shout over a game of marbles... all under the watchful eye of their voyeuristic neighbours.

Rethinking Work

My unhappiness at work troubled me a lot

In my very first blog entry I expressed some of the gnawing dissatisfaction I'd been feeling over the past year or two in regards to my employment. To be honest, in recent years there's been times where it has escalated from mere dissatisfaction to complete resentment towards my job, my colleagues and the entire industry. It has perplexed and troubled me a lot because in most instances, these feelings are completely unjustified.

The majority of jobs I've had over the last few years have been great. Most colleagues I've worked with have been wonderful (there's been a few that have been painful, but they have been in the minority) and I've been fortunate enough to have a steady stream of work come my way, often without having to look for it.

So it seemed like some cruel joke that just as I was entering my thirties the career that I'd worked so hard for suddenly felt like a prison sentence.

Europe Costs: The Final Figures

Well it's almost been a month between posts, but we have been exceptionally busy... As I write this, I'm sitting under a circling fan in our 1 bedroom apartment on Calle 102 Norte, Playa Del Carmen, Mexico. That's right - after an incredible 9 months of traveling, volunteering, sightseeing and partying throughout Europe; it was time to move on.

We loved Europe, but it was time to move on

As beautiful as the European winters can be, we were both craving some sun on our skin and some cool sea breezes. But more importantly, we knew that Europe alone could easily provide enough to see and do for an entire year - so if we didn't move on we could quite possibly exhaust our budget (and ourselves).

We had also used all of the time our Schengen Visas would allow, which meant that even if we had wanted to re-enter Europe we would need to travel via non-Schengen countries until May 2014 at the earliest.

So the decision was made to hightail it to Mexico, largely because this provided us with a cheap way to enter Central America from the UK (by flying into Mexico and traveling overland) and if we departed the UK in early March, we avoided the subsequent Spring Break mayhem (which is not only popular amongst American college students apparently).

We scored a great deal on flights thanks to Thomas Cook Airlines (one of the primary carriers for flights between the UK, Mexico and The Caribbean) and on the 4th March 2014 - exactly 9 months from when we first arrived in Europe - we departed for the sun-drenched shores of Cancun, Mexico.

One of the first things I did before our departure from the UK was to reconcile all of our spending in Europe over the past 9 months. As I'd been dutifully logging all expenses in a calendar this was a relatively easy task, as I simply added up the total spent in all the countries that we visited.

So - which were the cheapest countries in Europe, and how much did we average per day?

Budgeting in Bonnie Scotland

Urquhart Castle with views over Loch Ness

So we've just concluded our jaunt through the Republic of Ireland and the UK with two whirlwind weeks in bonnie Scotland; a land renowned for rolling green hills, kilt-wearing bagpipers and crumbling castle ruins. Whilst no cheaper than its Irish or British neighbours (we still averaged about AUD$50/ day each) it nonetheless offered plenty for a budget traveler to see and do, with spectacular coastlines and a vibrant cultural scene accessible to all.

Having said that, it did help to do our homework. Because a bit of research can translate into big savings, particularly in regards to transport and accommodation. That doesn't mean you have to book every detail of your trip in advance (especially in winter, when you may have to deal with unforeseen weather conditions), but just a little foresight and planning will make a real difference to your spending.

So here are my tips for getting aboot the majestic Scotland or the picturesque Emerald Isle on the cheap:

The Luck of The Irish

Following our budget-busting week in London we threw on our backpacks once again and departed Britain for its eye-wateringly expensive neighbour - the beautiful and timeless Ireland.

Ireland moves at a different pace

From the second we emerged from our cost-friendly (but 12+ hour long) coach and ferry journey, we noticed the change of pace.

Whereas London had been typically manic and full of people rushing to get somewhere, Dublin felt positively languid. Shopkeepers conversed with their customers, inquiring after their family and their health. Bus drivers greeted us warmly and gave directions to our accommodation. People stopped to help mothers manoeuvring large prams, or to assist elderly patrons board the bus... It all just felt so warm and welcoming.

And before anyone accuses me of perpetuating Irish stereotypes, such behaviour has been consistent throughout our journey which has thus far included Dublin, Belfast, Derry, Galway, Cork and Killarney. They're just such a friendly bunch of people! And I, for one, am soaking up their hospitality like a sponge.

Mind the Gap: Penny-pinching in London

It's been a few years
since I lived in London

Last week I returned to London for the first time in four years. I'd spent two years living in England's capital city from 2008 to 2010, before moving to Melbourne with a former partner. Going back was a bit like reuniting with said ex-partner: I'd felt a tad nostalgic for "the good ol' days"; I wondered if things had changed... and whilst my first few days felt promising and it seemed as if we'd both moved forward, inevitably I was reminded why it didn't work the first time around.

That's not to say that London isn't a fabulous city. It most definitely is. I just realised over the eight days I was there that my 31-year-old self is far different to the idealistic 25-year-old that jumped on a plane to Heathrow within days of graduating from university.

You see, back then it was all about my career. I lived to work. Within days of stepping off the plane in London I had secured an interview with the BBC, within two weeks I was walking their halls in my first ever TV job. And I didn't look back (well, until last year when my career came to a screeching halt as I departed on this round-the-world sabbatical).

Let Food Be Thy Medicine

I've always loved food. As a child my parents were delighted that I would eat a wide variety of foods, yet also perplexed as to where my curiosity and obsession with food came from.

I love to cook

But my love of food goes beyond a mere enjoyment of eating. I love the growing of food, the cooking of food, the sharing of food (and yes, the photographing of food - although I refrain from subjecting my Instagram followers to that).

I can spend hours perusing recipes online and in books; I watch endless cooking shows, food documentaries and cooking clips on YouTube and I frequently trawl food markets and food halls or walk into posh delicatessens and green grocers just to take a look (despite the fact I find most other forms of shopping mind-numbingly dull).

I'm also very enthusiastic about budgeting and frugality, as mentioned in an earlier post. So food waste makes my blood boil (an article about Melbourne's disgraceful food waste here) and I'm always searching for novel ways to eat well for less.

Auf Wiedersehen Berlin - A Budget Travel Oasis

So after two turbulent and hedonistic months in Berlin it was time to throw on our backpacks once again and embark on a new adventure.

It was time to leave Berlin

 We felt that whilst Berlin was a wonderful (and relatively cheap) city to stay and play in, we were languishing in that lifestyle and I was yearning to replace the grunge bars and galleries and city cafes with some snow-capped mountains, turquoise-green rivers, alpine forests and a healthy dose of hiking...  

Fortunately, one country that ticks all of those boxes is picture-postcard Slovenia. Nestled between Austria, Hungary, Croatia and Italy it is indeed a little country; but punches well above its weight in terms of natural beauty and rustic charm.

The country's capital Ljubljana was (whilst small) perhaps one of the prettiest European cities I've seen, offering relaxation and culture and a wealth of sites and activities for a city of its size.

So for the next few weeks we'll be busy exploring the dramatic cliffside castles, serene lakes and tranquil mountain villages that Slovenia has to offer before flying to another party capital: good ol' London Town!

But, I digress - back to Berlin and the budget. How much did two months cost us, and how did we keep costs down?